U.F.O -abbreviation for Un-Finished Object. [noun] A sewing term.

 


VV_OMG

UFOs.

Oh yes.

If you sew you have ’em.

They lurk in closets or huddle in bags. If left long enough they transform from UFO into a WTF was I thinking? or an OMG I remember this! and get cut into quilt pieces if they are lucky or simply binned if not. This past Friday I had a pre-summer closet shuffle, a.k.a. What-Fits-This-Year and I found two UFOs from last summer.

But isn’t it wonderful how if you take a break from a project, anywhere from overnight to ahem     a year! and look at it with fresh eyes that whatever seemed wrong with it isn’t such a big deal after all?  That’s how it works for me most of the time anyway. A sleeve suddenly fits in perfectly…. the pattern correction needed is blindingly obvious…. the pocket placement is clear. A long break did the trick for these two.

weldons gif by veravenus.com

This red linen dress  from a 1960’s Weldons pattern that I got for 25 pence was a spur of the moment make. So simple, a piece of cake yet turned into a nightmare. Most of the problems were to do with my posture and needing to shorten the back bodice length (shorter than most patterns) and lengthen the front (prominent bust). Simple enough if I’d made proper pattern alterations but I didn’t.  Then the bust darts just wouldn’t play nice: too high, too long, uneven… I gave it two days of undivided attention then into the back of my closet it went. (I know I know I should’a done a toile but I don’t listen to my own advice) So Saturday it was assessed, the dart issues corrected in 10 minutes flat, a zip added and finally it was finished. No big deal after all.   VV60's dress

 

 

Next up out of the closet was this saucy sarong dress, abandoned at its first fitting last year. Why? Because I wasn’t paying attention and had simply cut the bodice waaaay too small and the skirt was an experiment that didn’t go quite as planned. Fortunately I had just enough fabric left to cut a new bodice, re-cut the back skirt as the new under front and cut new backs. Tada….6 hours later done. I’ve wanted a “Tiki” dress for years. Where was this dress when I was thirty years younger but hey, better late than never 😉  I added a wide boned inner-waistband, not talking comfort here. It’s all about the shape.  I adapted it from one of those swimsuit patterns

that yes,

I      am     still      working on.

 

So two UFOs saved from the scrap heap. Hooray.

VVsarong dress

In the meantime while it is not yet hot enough for those dresses  I have been wearing this sample dress from the sewing project I designed for the April issue of Making. Soft rayon jersey, cheerful colours, super comfortable…. I could do with a couple more of these! It’s not retro I know…. but add a wiggle skirt with a drape instead of the flared skirt, reshape the neckline from a V into a sweetheart and it could be.VVjersey dress free pattern

I’m off to USA to catch up with family for a few weeks and just wanted to leave you with something for the nicer weather and so the pattern pdf is now posted on my VVFree page. As usual with my free patterns it’s only in the one size (pic below has info) but not tricky to grade up following the Threads guide -link  there on the right sidebar. It’s a fairly easy make, no darts or zips. All sewn on a domestic sewing machine with just basic stretch stitches.

VV jerseyDressFreePatternEnjoy.

All tied up

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MMblouse picAs seen in Making magazine logo   Issue 58/March 2015 of Making magazine was released in the UK yesterday and in it is this simple front buttoning bow tied blouse pattern and tutorial by yours truly :) Now the issue is on the shelves I can share this version with you- available on my Free Patterns PageKimono-Bow-blouse-flat

It’s based on the same hip-tucked body shape as my keyhole neck kimono/magyar blouse and like that one also has a 30’s/40’s feel to it. Works with or without shoulder pads as well.

BowBlouse

Yesterday as an after thought I added optional extra front and centre back tucks to this pattern to help you make the hips a closer fit if desired. Top-stitching along each tuck looks nice too.

However if you’re just not a pussycat bow fan…

Say NO to the bow

….you could add a different sort of collar; a less fluffy bow tie, a peter pan, a simple stand or even just sew on a vintage lace collar to the round neck.

Green satin blouse VeraVenus

This little green silk satin blouse is one I made years ago. It has a very similar style armhole though shaped closer to the shoulder and with a little curve in the underarm so it forms a closer fitting grown-on cap sleeve. The simple skinny tie collar is just a straight folded band.  A detail I particularly like from 30’s and 40’s bloused is multiple close rows of top stitching. It lends an instant vintage feel to a modern make. I went to town with that idea, even adding it on at the seams and hems.

Bow&Suit

I like the bow blouse with jeans but it works really well with some of of my vintage 40’s suits.

I’ve just been sorting through my Spring/Summer wear (inspired by this sunny day) and remembered that a few of those of those have undergone some major alterations to get them to fit me nicely. A post on what I think of as ‘kamikaze alterations’ is on the way. It may give you some useful ideas on how to approach various fitting alterations on vintage garments, particularly how to gain that valuable waist and bust real estate. It’s more than just letting out a couple of darts as you will see.

Stay tuned…

 

A little more on the kimono front

Simple vintage style blouse- free pattern @ veravenus.com

Magyar blouse with shoulder pads

 

Magyar blouse

No shoulder pads and with tie belt from the dress.

 

Left over from my recent adventures in vintage Japanese kimono deconstruction I had enough of  one to also make this simple magyar/kimono blouse.

The definition of magyar blouse says  that  ‘…the sleeves are cut in one with the body.’  I’d also call that a kimono style top. I’m not sure of or even if there’s much difference between a magyar and basic kimono cut …if anyone does know a distinction please enlighten me.

In any event the magyar style of dress bodice & blouse seems to have been around for a long time in western fashion history from before WWI through the 30’s, into the 50’s and pops up beyond though in more recent decades maybe that’s when it began to be called a ‘kimono’ cut.  Really I’m just making a supposition on that, don’t quote me.

 

My blouse started with a vintage Style pattern, envelope long gone, maybe late 40’s. However the pattern is sized for a teeny-tiny person so I redrafted it to a human size for myself and made it up in kimono silk. I decided after the fact that I  prefer three keyhole or tear-drop cutouts rather than two (as in this velvet dress I made  a couple of years ago) so the pattern I posted  has 3 keyholes.  You will need to look up bias binding techniques if they are new to you as the neckline and keyholes are finished with small self bias bindings. Other than that it is an easy make and could have a collar instead of cut-outs, or a V neck or something if you just can’t face doing those fiddly bindings. It’s a nice basic shape that is wide open for creative interpretation.  Thinner fabrics with some drape will work best…. even a jersey could!

Pattern size, seam allowances, fabric amount needed etc are all included in the blouse pdf. on my VV Free page. It would be a very easy pattern to grade up or down following the Threads Grading guide link over there on the right.

Magyar blouse flat

 

my at-work wear.

 

vintage  resin button

vintage resin button

Though shown up there with a black pencil skirt made from my skirt drafting tutorial with bucket pockets and these little resin seahorse buttons (Is it easy to make buttons like these? I’ve been wanting to experiment with resin for ages) I have mostly been wearing my blouse with just jeans for ordinary day-in-the-studio attire. Lol, is it obvious I’m not big on taking selfies?

 

 

While I’m about it here also is how to make one kind of shoulder pads from 7 inch circles. These are the ones I made for the kimono fabric Hollywood pattern dress and as I used tiny poppers to hold them in I can quickly swap them into the blouse . Not just a pretty face here, ya know!

Pictorial on how to make shoulder pads for 40's style dresses

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cornish Pasties

mmmmm!

Cornish Pasty thoughts have set my stomach rumbling…. dinner time!

P.S.-

In answer to Anna’s comment below about altering the pattern or something similar for a larger bust I’ve made this quick diagram. If done on a full size pattern with this proportion of spreading about 8cm/3″ inches total would be gained across the front at bust level and about 4cm/1 1/2″ between shoulder and waist line. The waist and hem are brought back to the original pattern size by swinging the lower side seam back in and making the tucks bigger. Some adjustment in fit may also be needed at the outer shoulder to make the arm opening nearer the original size. Of course if more is needed across the front the spread would be larger but the principle the same. Two useful measurments to take are your side seam to side seam over full bust and shoulder over bust point down to waist to work out how much you need to add.   Hope this helps  :)

VV Kimono Blouse FBA

VV Kimono Blouse FBA

 

 

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